How to store seasonal clothes
How to store seasonal clothes so they come out clean and moth-free, from washing first to choosing bins, places to avoid, and what cedar really does.
The BoxTrack team · · 5 min readThe first cold morning of the year, she went up to the closet shelf for her good wool coat. It had a row of small holes along one sleeve, and the sweater folded under it was worse. Both had gone into storage in April after one last wear, straight off the hook, not washed.
Seasonal clothes spend half the year out of sight, which is exactly when things go wrong: moths, damp, a smell that won't wash out. Storing them well comes down to a few habits, most of which happen before the lid goes on.
Wash everything first
This is the step that does the most good. Conservators say to store only clean textiles, because dirt and stains attract fabric pests. UC's Integrated Pest Management program says to make sure stored items are clean and pest-free, and that laundering is effective: washing for 20 to 30 minutes in water at least 120°F kills them. For things that can't take that, dry cleaning also works. Follow the care label.
Make sure everything is completely dry before it's packed. Even slightly damp clothes in a closed bin can come out smelling of mildew.
Before the lid goes on
Pick the right container
You want something clean, closed and easy to label. Conservators disagree a little on plastic, so here's what each says:
- The Smithsonian advises against sealing fabric in airtight plastic bags or containers, because textiles need some air movement to avoid condensation.
- The Canadian Conservation Institute says polyethylene plastic and acid-free cardboard boxes are suitable for storing textiles, and suggests wrapping items in muslin or tissue first.
- UC IPM, thinking about pests, recommends airtight containers for clean, pest-free items.
For everyday clothes, a lidded plastic bin works well as long as the clothes go in clean and dry and the bin stays somewhere cool and dry. For something special, such as a wool coat you love or a wedding dress, wrap it in clean cotton or unbuffered acid-free tissue first. The Canadian Conservation Institute notes that buffered tissue contains alkalis that can harm wool and silk.
| Container | Good for seasonal clothes | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Lidded plastic bin | ✓ | Clothes must be clean and fully dry |
| Acid-free archival box | ✓ | Best for special or delicate pieces |
| Cotton garment bag for coats | ✓ | Lets the fabric breathe on a hanger |
| Dry cleaner's plastic bag | ✗ | Take it off before storing |
| Old grocery or shipping box | ✗ | Pests and damp get in more easily |
Where to keep them
The Smithsonian says to store textiles somewhere dark, cool and dry with stable conditions, and that rules out attics and basements, where heat and humidity swing. It describes about 65 to 70°F and 40 to 50 percent relative humidity as ideal. A bedroom closet shelf or under a bed is usually better than the garage.
If you use a storage unit, climate control helps for wool, silk and leather. Our guide to climate-controlled storage covers when it's worth it, and our post on keeping boxes dry in a basement or garage covers what to do if that's the only space you have.
Fold, don't hang (mostly)
Fold sweaters and other knits rather than hanging them. The Canadian Conservation Institute recommends keeping folds to a minimum and padding any folds with acid-free tissue so creases don't set. Coats and structured jackets keep their shape better on a sturdy hanger in a breathable cotton bag.
Remove pins, metal clips and anything that can rust before storing.
What about cedar and mothballs?
Cedar smells nice, but it's not much protection. UC IPM calls the effectiveness of cedar chests and cedar closets debatable: cedar oil can kill small larvae but not large ones, and the wood loses that ability after several years. Clemson's Home and Garden Information Center says most cedar chests and closets are only marginally effective, and only for fabrics that were free of pests to begin with.
So don't rely on cedar blocks to make up for skipping the wash. Clean clothes in a closed container do most of the work. If you use any moth product, follow the label exactly.
Check them once or twice a season
Set a reminder to open the bins halfway through the season. Look for small holes, webbing, larvae or a musty smell, especially along seams and inside folds. UC IPM suggests hanging stored woolens in the sun now and then and brushing them, paying attention to seams and pockets, which removes eggs and exposes larvae.
Know which bin is which
Seasonal storage fails in a quieter way too: nobody remembers which bin has the kids' snow boots, so three bins come down from the shelf and get torn apart on the first cold day.
BoxTrack keeps a list for every bin. Make a box in the app for each one, snap a photo of what goes in, and AI lists the items for you to check. Print a QR label and stick it on the end of the bin that faces out. When the weather turns, search "snow pants" and get the bin number, or scan the label to see what's inside without lifting it down. See how BoxTrack works for storage. Your first box is free.
Packing clothes for a move instead? Our guide to packing clothes for moving covers wardrobe boxes and suitcases.
Sources
- UC Statewide IPM Program, Clothes moths
- UC Statewide IPM Program, Clothes moths pest note
- Clemson Home and Garden Information Center, Fabric pest control
- Smithsonian Institution, How do I store antique textiles at home?
- Smithsonian Museum Conservation Institute, Climate and textiles storage
- Canadian Conservation Institute, Caring for textiles and costumes
- Canadian Conservation Institute, Preparing the textile for storage
